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Destinations & Articles
Cuba
The
Rich History and Grandeur of Old Havana
Published in the Spring 2006
Issue of Canadian World Traveller
Text & Photos: By Habeeb
Salloum (habeeb.salloum@sympatico.ca)
Additional Photos: Courtesy of Cuba Tourism Board www.gocuba.ca/en/index.asp
To study the history
of architecture in the Western Hemisphere one can find no
better concentration of historic structures than La Habana
Vieja (Old Havana). Founded in 1515, Old Havana never fails to
impress its visitors with its rich history and incomparable
New World grandeur. One
of the earliest urban centres established by Europeans in the
Western Hemisphere, this part of Havana is a lovingly restored
monument to the city’s glorious past.
The legacy of the
Spanish Conquistadors who built the original city is a
wonderful mix of colonial homes, charming plazas, museums and
other places of historic interest.
Today, some of Old Havana’s historic structures house
a variety of bars featuring live entertainment. Many others
serve as art galleries, hotels, libraries, offices, shops, cafés
and restaurants offering traditional Cuban fare and
international cuisine.
 Queen
of the New World
Known to the
Conquistadors as 'Queen of the New World', Old Havana is a
remnant from Cuba's colonial era – a jewel of Spanish
colonial architecture. UNESCO has declared this 4 sq km (2.5
sq. mile) area of narrow streets, secluded squares, impressive
fortresses, centuries-old churches and ancient palaces as a
World Heritage Site. On
a continual basis, its 907 colonial palaces and over 100 other
monuments are being gradually restored.
Travellers can easily see that this venerable part of
the city is being returned to its once renowned architectural
splendour.
Today, Havana has
greatly expanded beyond its historic sector.
A city of 2.5 million, it is
the largest urban centre in the Caribbean and home to one
quarter of Cuba's more than 11 million inhabitants.
Yet, what comes to mind when one thinks of Havana, is
its timeworn original heart now throbbing with tourists
and new life. To
fully experience Old Havana in all its glory one must take a
stroll through it.
Plaza
de San Francisco de Asis
 We began our walking
tour at the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, named after the
bordering church and convent. This edifice, which was
constructed 1738, is one of the most important historic sites
in Havana. An 11 km
(6.8 miles) long hand-dug connecting aqueduct – partially
uncovered for tourists to view it – once transported fresh
water for the church and ships docked in the nearby port.
The aqueduct ends at the Fuente de los Leones
in the centre of the square.
Decorated with four lions, it is an exact copy of the
Lions’ Fountain in Granada’s Alhambra in Spain.
Opposite the church
stands the impressive former stock market building. Bordering
the square on its third side is the impressive Cruise Terminal
and on its forth side are 17th and 18th
century houses, now all fully restored.
Some travellers consider this plaza, usually filled
with tourists, as the most beautiful in Havana.
After passing two
ladies with flower baskets selling tourists kisses on the
cheek for one dollar apiece, we turned off the square to walk
up the narrow Calle Teniente Rey, which is lined with
renovated period structures. “Oh!
This reminds me of Spain!”
an English woman passing me remarked.
Apparently she did not know that Havana was once the
Caribbean homeport of the Spanish fleet and one of the most
important Spanish possessions in the New World.
 Plaza
Vieja
A few minutes of
walking brought us to Plaza Vieja, impressive in its historic
mansions surrounding the square on all four sides.
With the exception of two structures, all of them have
been tastefully restored. Without a doubt, they are even more
attractive today than they were when newly built in the 18th
century. This plaza is
unique in that, unlike in any other city, no religious edifice
or important government building overlooks the square.
From Plaza Vieja, we
walked along another narrow street with even more renovated
historic homes, all featuring eye-catching Spanish colonial
architecture. It
appeared to me that Old Havana was being regenerated – a 16th
century town living in the 21st century.
 Plaza
de Armas
After a five-minute
walk, we reached Plaza de Armas –Havana’s oldest
and most important square. It
is lined on all sides by plants, marble benches and the period
gas lamps that illuminate the square.
The plaza also features lots of second-hand books for
sale. By day and night, the square attracts hosts of people,
many of them drawn there by its many popular restaurants and
bars.
The Plaza is also
bordered by important historical structures.
Across from the Baroque-styled
Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, now housing the City
Museum exhibiting antique furniture, stands El Templete, so
named because it resembles a temple. In 1599, the city of
Havana was founded on this very spot.
Beside El Templete flourishes a ceiba tree, once
considered sacred by Cuba’s aboriginal people.
Next-door is the Castillo de la Real Fuerza. La
Giraldilla, the symbol of Havana, caps one of its towers.
 Plaza
de la Cathedral
Leaving Plaza de
Armas, we walked to the Plaza de la Cathedral (Cathedral
Square) – a very important tourist stop. The square, one of
the most authentic and best preserved in Havana, is a charming and monumental place. It has been called the soul of
Havana. The Cathedral
has one of the most beautiful baroque façades in all
of Latin America and is
Havana’s historic site par excellence.
The
plaza is also bordered by the Museo de Arte Colonial housed in an old mansion, and opposite
the cathedral the historic Casa
de los Condes de San Fernando de Peñalver.
The square is always filled with tourists, many dining
at the El Margues restaurant or shopping at the next-door
handicraft market.
 We ended our tour at
Central Park on the edge of the first major expansion of the
original city centre. We rested in this oasis of greenery then
explored the nearby impressive
Gran Teatro de la Habana and El Capitolio, a replica of the US
Capital in Washington that was built in the 1920s when Cuba
was almost totally under American influence.
An
Historic Legacy
As I sat in the park
to rest I thought about our half-day walking tour of Old
Havana. It had been a
fulfilling experience, exploring the structures of grandeur
from days of yore, especially those that have been so
beautifully restored.
What impressed me this
time in Havana were not only the restored structures but also
the virtual absence of the tenacious sidewalk vendors,
small-time thieves, beggars and pestering children, which only
a few years ago were everywhere in the streets of the old
city.
The people appeared to
be generally better off and the authorities have cleared the
streets of those once aggravating annoyances.
I came away with an impression that today’s Cuba now
protects and celebrates its rich historic legacy – a legacy
that visitors from the four corners of the globe can now
readily explore and enjoy.
Some
Facts About Today's Cuba:
-
 Cuba has become
much more expensive for tourists than in the past. It is
best to take an all-inclusive package offered by most
hotels.
-
Taxis are the best
way for getting around Havana.
Renting a car is expensive – around 60 CUC
and up per day – and gas is around 1 CUC a litre.
-
In spite of the
shortages, all of Cuba is still safe. Thefts are rare and
tap water is drinkable, even in the villages.
-
The best buys in
Cuba are rum and cigars. Beware
of black market cigars – often they are not
authentic. Seven-year
old Havana Club is the finest Cuban rum.
It is smoother than brandy and sells at around 10
CUC a bottle. In
Havana, the best place to buy Cuban souvenirs is at
Handicraft Markets like the one near Plaza de la Catedral.
-
Cubans are
appreciative of gifts, especially soap, English-Spanish
dictionaries and all types of clothing – new and
used.
-
For Americans
wishing to travel to Cuba through Canada, only a valid
passport is needed. Passports
are not stamped. US citizens should not use their credit
cards in Cuba. Also,
the US dollar has a 10% surcharge when exchanged.
-
Remember to keep
25 CUC for the departure tax.
 Currency:
Visitors to Cuba must
use Cuban convertible pesos (CUC – at present 1 CUC = $1.30
Canadian. The regular Cuban peso, which can only be used by
tourists to purchase such products as fruit and vegetables,
converts at about 25 pesos to 1 CUC. For Cuban currency
information, click
here.
Local
Cuisine:
The food
served most ordinary
Cuban restaurants is quite bland. An average meal for tourists
costs about 15 CUC. Visitors
should try the main Cuban dish, Rice and Black Beans – very tasty when spices are added.
Entertainment:
Havana's most renowned
nightspot La Tropicana is built in a grotto of royal palms.
It features a spectacular extravaganza of lavish
scenery, dancing and sumptuous costumes and costs 65, 75 or 85
CUC, depending on the seat. However,
there are other cabarets like the Parisian at the Nacional
Hotel that costs about half the price of El Tropicana.
Some
of the Other Sites Worth Seeing in Havana:
-
 The Malacón
– the city’s 7km (4.2 mi)
seafront promenade used by inhabitants and tourists alike,
especially for cooling off and relaxing during the hot
summer months.
-
Castillo del
Morro and Castillo de la Punta
– two Spanish forts
that originally guarded Havana Bay.
-
Museum of the
Revolution
– Housed in the former Presidential
Palace, it outlines in minute detail Cuba's historic
revolution.
-
Plaza de la
Revolution
–
Cuba’s political headquarters are located on this square
used for large rallies.
-
Cementerio
Cristóbal Colón – A cemetery known for the beauty
and magnificence of its crypts.
Note: All the
prices quoted in this article are in CUC pesos.
For
More Info:
Cuba Tourist Board
(Toronto)
55 Queen St. E., Suite 705
Toronto, ON M5C 1R5
Tel.: (416) 362-0700
Fax: (416) 362-6799
Email: cuba.tbtor@sympatico.ca
Website: www.gocuba.ca/en/index.asp
Cuba Tourist Board (Montreal)
2075, rue University, Bureau 460
Montréal, QC H3A 2L1
Tel.: (514) 875-8004
Fax: (514) 875-8006
Email: montreal@gocuba.ca
Website: www.gocuba.ca/en/index.asp
Embassy of Cuba
388 Main Street
Ottawa, ON K1S 1E3
Tel.: 613-563-0141
Fax: 613-563-0068
Email: cuba@embacuba.ca
Website: www.embacuba.ca
Cubana Airlines (Montreal)
620, rue St-Jacques, Bureau 10
Montréal, QC H3C 1C7
Tel.: (514) 871-1222
E-mail: ventas@qc.aira.com
Website: www.cubana.cu
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